GUADELOUPE

Guadeloupe is actually formed by two different islands, separated by a narrow seawater channel known as the Riviere Salee’. It is part of the Lesser Antilles, about 200 miles north of Martinique, closer to the United States than to its cousin island.

Grande-Terre, the eastern island, is typical of the charm of the Antilles, with its rolling hills and sugar plantations.

Basse-Terre, to the west, is a rugged mountainous island, dominated by the 4,800-foot volcano, La Soufriere, which is still alive. It’s mountains are covered with tropical forests, impenetrable in many places. Bananas grown on plantations are the main crop, and the island is ringed by beautiful white-sand beaches, which have attracted much tourism.

Guadeloupe is known for its beautiful countryside, especially in the winter and the people are friendly.

The official language is French; Creole is the unofficial second language. As on Martinique, English is spoken only in the major tourist centers, rarely in the countryside. For stays of less than 21 days, U.S., British or Canadian residents need a passport, plus a return or on-going plane ticket. While in Guadeloupe, stick to bottled water only.

Getting Around

Having a rental car enables you to circumnavigate Basse-Terre. Car rental kiosks at the airport are open to meet international flights. It is recommended to reserve a car in advance through North America’s largest car-rental companies: Hertz. You must drive on the right side of the road. You’ll find taxis when you arrive at the airport, but no limousines or buses. Buses link almost every hamlet to Pointe-a-Pitre; however, you may need to know some French to use the system.

Where to Stay (Pointe-a’-Pitre)

Hotel St.-John Anchorage

Where to Dine

Le Big Steak House

Restaurant Sucre’-Sale

LE BAS DU FORT

 Le Bas Du Fort is just 2 miles east of Pointe-a’-Pitre. It is rated as one of the three most important aquariums of France and is the largest and most modern in the Caribbean.

Just off the highway near Bas-du-Fort Marina, the aquarium is home to tropical fish, coral, underwater plants, huge sharks and other sea creatures.

Where to Stay

Fleur d’Epee’ Novotel

Marissol

Where to Dine

Rosini

GOSIER

Gosier is well noted for seekers of souvenirs and some Haitian paintings. The island’s best Haitian art is at Centre d’Art Haitian.

Gosier has some of the biggest and most important hotels of Guadeloupe. An excursion would include climbing to the semi-ruined heights of Fort Fleur-d’Epee’, dating from the 18th century. The dungeons and battlements are testaments to the ferocious fighting between the French and British armies in 1794. On a clear day, you can see the neighboring offshore islands of Marie-Galante and Illes des Saintes.

Where to Stay

La Creole Beach Hotel

Sofitel Auberge de la Vielille Tour

Where to Dine

Chez Violetta

Le Bananier

STE-ANNE

Ste-Anne is about 9 miles east of Gosier. Little Ste-Anne is a sugar town and a resort offering many fine beaches and lodgings. It is known as a charming village of Guadeloupe.

Place de la Victoire is where a statue of Schoelcher commemorating the abolition of slavery in 1848.

Ste-Anne is known for its flamboyant colored scarves and its flowing silk dresses.

 Where to Dine

Club Med-Caravelle

Hotel La Toubana

ST-FRANCOIS

 St-Francois is a jet-set resort. It is 25 miles east of Pointe-a’-Pitre, at one time was a sleepy fishing village, known for its native Creole restaurants.

It know has first class accommodations, as well as an airport available to private jets, a golf course, and a marina. It has old round towers named for Father Labat, the Dominican founder of the sugarcane industry.

Where to Stay

Hamak

Hotel Anchorage

La Plantation Ste-Marthe

Le Meridien St.-Francois

Where to Dine

La Louisiane

Les Oiseaux

POINTE DES CHATEAUX

Pointe Des Chateaux is at the extreme end of Guadeloupe. You’ll have a view of the northeastern sector of the island and to the east a look at La Desirade, another island that has the appearance of a huge vessel anchored far away.

This island is covered with miles of coved white-sand beaches. Most of these are safe for swimming, except at the point where the waves of the turbulent Atlantic encounter the tranquil Caribbean Sea, churning up the waters. There’s a nudist enclave at Pointe Tarare.

Where to Dine

Restaurante Les Chateaux

PORT LOUIS

Continuing northwest along the coast from Petit canal, you come to Port Louis, well known for its beautiful beach, La Plage du Souffleur.

During the week, the beach is an especially quiet spot. The little port town has some good restaurants. It is best in the spring when the brilliant white sand is effectively shown off against a contrast of the flaming red poinciana.

Where to Dine

Le Poisson d’Or

ANSE BERTRAND

 About 5 miles from Port Louis is Anse Bertrand, the northernmost village of Guadeloupe. What is now a fishing village was the last refuge of the Carib tribes and a reserve was once created here. Everything now, however, is sleepy.

Where to Dine

Chez Prudence (Folle Plage)

Le Chateau de Feuilles

STE-ROSE

From Lamentin, you can drive for 6 1/2 miles to Ste-Rose, where you’ll find several good beaches. To your left, a small road leads to Sofaia, from which you’ll have a panoramic view over the coast and forest preserve. The locals claim that a sulfur spring here has curative powers.

Where to Stay

La Sucreie du Comte’

Where to Dine

Restaurante Clara

DESHAIES/GRAND ANSE

At Deshaies, snorkeling and fishing are popular pastimes. It has narrow roads winding up and down and has a corniche look, blue sea underneath and the view of green mountains studded with colorful hamlets.

Nine miles from Deshaies, Pointe Noire comes into view, its name comes from black volcanic rocks. Look for the odd polychrome cenotaph in town.

Where to Stay

Grand’Anse Hotel

Residence de la Pointe Batterie

Where to Dine

Chez Jacky

Les Gommiers

Le Karacoli

PARC NATUREL DE GUADELOUPE

Parc Naturel De Guadeloupe is a tropical forest. Guadeloupe has set aside 74,100 acres, about one-fifth of its entire terrain. This huge tract of mountains, tropical forest and scenery is easily accessible via modern roads.

The park is home to a variety of tame animals, including titi and such birds as the wood pigeon, turtledove and thrush. Small exhibition huts, devoted to the volcano, the forest or to coffee, sugarcane and rum are scattered throughout the park. The Park Naturel has no gates, no opening or closing hours and no admission fee.

 Where to Dine

Chez Vaneau

BOUILLANTE

 Bouillante is a village south from Mahaut. You may encounter the French film star and part-time resident, Brigitte Bardot.

The area around the village is known for its thermal springs. If you scratch the ground for only a few inches in some places, you’ll feel the heat.

 Where to Dine

Chez Loulouse

Le Rocher de Malendure

 BASSE-TERRE

Basse-Terre is the capital of Guadeloupe. It inhabits 14,000 residents and lies between the water and La Soufriere, the volcano. It was founded in 1640s and is the oldest town on the island. It has tamarind and palm trees.

It was originally selected as the capital of Guadeloupe because of its breezes and altitudes above the steaming lowlands of Pointe-a’Pitre.

Where to Stay

Hotel St-Georges

Where to Dine